Making Traditional Damson Jam from Hedgerow Fruit

Damsons make a rich, tangy jam that captures the taste of early autumn. This simple recipe uses just fruit, sugar and a little lemon juice, and it's one of the most rewarding ways to use a hedgerow harvest. In the Peak District, the damson season runs from late August through to early October, depending on the weather and the altitude. A good year sees the small, oval fruits hanging in dense clusters, their deep purple-blue skins dusted with a silvery bloom. If you're lucky enough to have access to a few old damson trees or a generous hedgerow, making jam is the best way to preserve that intense, mouth-puckering flavour for the months ahead.

Foraging for Damsons in the Peak District

Damsons are not usually found in neat orchards around here; they tend to grow in hedgerows, along field edges, and in the remnants of old cottage gardens. The trees are small and thorny, often suckering to form thickets. Look for them in late summer, when the foliage starts to thin and the fruit becomes visible. The Peak District's damson heritage is strong, with trees scattered across Derbyshire and Staffordshire, some of them centuries old.

When foraging, always ask permission if the land is private, and never strip a bush bare. Leave plenty of fruit for birds and small mammals, and take only what you need. A good rule is to pick no more than a third of the crop from any one tree. Use a basket or a sturdy bag, and wear long sleeves and gloves if you're pushing into thorny hedges. The fruit should come away easily when ripe; if you have to tug, it's not ready.

Preparing the Fruit

Once home, tip your damsons into a colander and rinse them under cold water. Pick out leaves, stems, and any fruit that's damaged or mouldy. You don't need to stone the damsons for this recipe. In fact, leaving the stones in during cooking adds pectin and a subtle almond note to the jam. However, you must remove them before potting. I've found the easiest method is to cook the fruit first, then fish the stones out with a slotted spoon once the jam has cooled slightly. It's a fiddly job, so put the radio on and take your time.

• Never crack the stones open to extract the kernels. They contain amygdalin, which the body converts to cyanide. Just discard the whole stones.
• If you prefer a seedless jam, you can stone the fruit raw with a cherry stoner, but it's slow work and you'll lose some juice. I think the stones are worth the effort.
• Weigh the fruit after preparation so you know how much sugar to add.

The Recipe: Fruit, Sugar, Lemon

This is a traditional equal-weight recipe, which works beautifully because damsons are naturally high in pectin and acid. You'll need:

• 1.8 kg damsons, washed and stalks removed
• 1.8 kg granulated sugar (white, not golden, to let the fruit colour shine)
• Juice of 1 lemon (about 3 tablespoons)
• 150 ml water

You'll also need a preserving pan or a large, heavy-based saucepan. A wide pan is best because it allows the water to evaporate quickly, which helps the jam set. Sterilise your jars before you start: wash them in hot soapy water, rinse, then place them in a low oven (120°C) for 15 minutes. Keep them warm until you're ready to fill them.

Cooking and Testing for a Set

Put the damsons and water into your pan. Bring to a simmer over a medium heat, then cover and cook gently for 20 to 30 minutes, until the fruit is soft and bursting. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. You'll see the skins split and the juice run.

Add the sugar and lemon juice. Stir over a low heat until all the sugar has dissolved. This can take a few minutes; if you can still feel grains on the bottom of the pan, keep stirring. Once the sugar is fully dissolved, turn up the heat and bring the jam to a rolling boil. Boil hard for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring often. Damsons set easily, so start testing after 10 minutes.

To test for a set, put a saucer in the freezer before you start boiling. Drop a teaspoon of jam onto the cold saucer, let it cool for a minute, then push it with your finger. If the surface wrinkles, the jam is ready. If it's still runny, boil for another 2 minutes and test again. Alternatively, use a sugar thermometer: jam sets at 105°C.

When the jam is ready, turn off the heat. Skim off any foam with a slotted spoon. Now remove the stones. This is easiest if you let the jam sit for 5 minutes, then scoop them out with a slotted spoon. Count them if you like, just to be sure you've got them all.

Potting and Storing

Pot the jam into warm, sterilised jars while it's still hot. Fill right to the top, then cover with a wax disc (wax side down) and seal with a lid. As the jam cools, it will shrink slightly and create a good seal. Label the jars with the date and contents.

Store in a cool, dark cupboard. Damson jam will keep for at least a year, though its colour may darken slightly. Once opened, keep it in the fridge and use within a month or two.

Variations and Uses

Traditional damson jam is hard to beat, but you can ring the changes. A sprig of rosemary added during cooking gives a lovely herby note. A cinnamon stick or a vanilla pod works well, too. Some people add a knob of butter at the end to reduce foaming, but it's not necessary.

Use your jam on hot buttered toast, swirled into porridge or yoghurt, or as a filling for sponge cakes. It's superb with cheese, especially a crumbly Wensleydale or a sharp blue. Try it as a glaze for roast lamb or duck, or spooned over baked apples. However you enjoy it, you'll be capturing a little bit of the Peak District's autumn sunshine in every jar.