Keeping Goats as Part of a Smallholding Setup

Why goats suit a Peak District smallholding

Goats are intelligent, inquisitive and deeply sociable, and that combination makes them a rewarding addition to a smallholding – provided you understand what you are taking on. They are not lawnmowers, nor are they hardy sheep. In the Peak District, with its steep fields, stone walls and changeable weather, goats can clear scrub, browse hedgerows, provide milk and manure, and become firm favourites. But they need company. A single goat is a stressed goat, so keep at least two. They also need a purpose: whether that is milk, fibre, brush control or simply the pleasure of keeping them. Be honest about your reasons before you buy.

Fencing and shelter: the non-negotiables

If you take one thing from this article, make it this: secure fencing comes before goats. Goats are escape artists. They climb, lean, push and squeeze. Standard sheep netting is often inadequate because the mesh is too large for kids and the height too low for determined adults. Use stock fencing with a mesh no bigger than 10cm by 10cm, at least 1.2 metres high, and add an electric offset wire at 30cm and 60cm. Gate latches must be goat-proof – a simple thumb latch will not do. Check boundaries weekly, especially after storms.

Shelter must be dry, draught-free and well ventilated. A field shelter, stone barn or sturdy timber structure works well. Allow at least 1.5 square metres per goat, with deep straw bedding and a raised area if the ground is wet. In the Peak District, driving rain and snow mean you need a shelter they can use all year, not just in winter. Position it on high ground, facing away from prevailing winds, and keep hay racks off the floor to reduce waste and contamination.

Feeding: browse first, hay always

Goats are browsers, not grazers. They prefer woody plants, leaves, brambles, ivy, hawthorn, willow and rosehips. Lush grass alone can cause problems, including bloat and mineral imbalances. Offer good quality hay ad lib – mouldy hay can cause serious illness – and provide a loose mineral mix designed for goats. Be careful with copper: goats need more than sheep, but too much is toxic. If in doubt, ask your vet. A consistent daily routine matters as much as the feed itself.

• Fresh clean water at all times, checked twice daily in winter
• Hay racks and mineral licks kept off the ground
• Browse: safe trees and shrubs, never yew, rhododendron or laurel
• Introduce any new feed slowly over 7–10 days

Seasonal skills through the Peak District year

Spring brings kidding, and with it the need to watch for hypothermia in newborns. Keep kids dry, warm and with colostrum within the first hours. Disbudding, if you choose it, is done in the first week by a vet. Summer means flystrike risk, so check coats and rear ends daily, rotate grazing to reduce worm burden, and provide shade. Autumn is preparation: body condition scoring, faecal egg counts, and making sure housing is ready before the first snow.

Winter in the Peak District tests any smallholder. Water troughs freeze, hooves soften in mud, and respiratory problems flare in damp shelters. Bring goats closer to the house if you can, increase hay, and check feet every few weeks. A deep straw bed and good ventilation prevent most problems. Snow on high ground may mean you cannot reach fields for days, so keep a week’s worth of feed and bedding under cover.

Health, handling and daily checks

Goats reward gentle, consistent handling. Spend ten minutes a day with them – not just at feeding time – so they stay tame and easy to catch. Run your hands over each animal: feel for lumps, check eyes for anaemia, look at droppings and watch how they move. Hooves need trimming every six to eight weeks, more often in wet weather. Worm only when needed, based on faecal egg counts, not the calendar. Vaccinate against clostridial diseases as advised by your vet, and quarantine any new arrival for three weeks.

Never keep a goat alone. Company is not optional. If you lose one, replace it quickly or move the remaining goat in with other livestock – but only if they are compatible. Goats can bully or be bullied by sheep and cattle, so supervise introductions.

Getting started on your holding

Start small: two or three goats is plenty. Check your land can support them without overgrazing – a rough rule is one acre of reasonable browse and grazing per two goats, but this varies with soil and season. Speak to a local vet who knows goats, and join a breed society or smallholding group for advice. In the Peak District, neighbours and farmers often know more than any book. Secure your boundary, build or repair shelter, then buy. Goats will test your fencing, your patience and your routine – but they will also give you milk, manure, companionship and a daily reason to be outside. That is a fair exchange.